The Good Food Hour
pictured above: Steve Garner, Chef John Ash and Wine Guy Tom Simoneau
Chef John Ash has been co-hosting "The Good Food Hour" with Steve Garner on KSRO since 1987. John is an internationally recognized culinary figure. Visit Chef John Ash's personal website
Every Saturday from 11am to Noon, Steve and John delve into the makings of delightful delicacies, daring dishes and decadence! From classics to the creme de la creme, The Good Food Hour takes a bite out of the mysteries of cooking and offers easy tips that everyone can understand.
Often Steve and John are joined by "The Sonoma County Wine Guy" Tom Simoneau. Since the early 1990's Tom Simoneau has been bringing KSRO listeners the best local wine reviews, tasting tips, and vineyard happenings.
Recently featured on The Good Food Hour:
MUHAMMARA
Makes about 2 cups
Pomegranate molasses is available at well-stocked supermarkets and Middle Eastern markets. Muhammara is great served with crudités, pita bread and with roasted or grilled meats, such as lamb kebabs.
3 large red bell peppers
1 large clove garlic, crushed
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and crushed
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses, or to taste
1-1/4 cups chopped toasted walnuts
1/3 cup bread crumbs
1 teaspoon Kosher or sea salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper, or to taste
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1. Roast the red peppers on a rack over the burner on a gas stove or on a grill until blackened and blistered all over, about 10 minutes. Once they are roasted remove them from the rack to a paper bag and let stand until they are cool enough to handle.
2. Remove all the charred skin from the peppers, and remove the stems and seeds.
3. Combine roasted peppers, garlic, crushed cumin seeds, lemon juice and pomegranate molasses in a food processor and process until almost smooth. Add the walnuts and bread crumbs and process until chunky smooth. It should have just a bit of texture.
4. Add the salt, Aleppo pepper and olive oil and process just until combined. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Best made at least 2 hours ahead and can be refrigerated up to five days.
John Ash © 2005
JA
KSRO'S WINNING TAMALE RECIPES! Click on the tamales to find out how to make a plate of your own award-winning tamales!
Alcoholic Ice Cream! A dairy in upstate New York was recently featured on The Good Food Hour, showcasing their delicious alcoholic ice cream. You actually have to show ID to buy this stuff. It is not currently for sale in California, but you can order it online by visiting their website. Click here to go to Mercer's Dairy.
ANISE BISCOTTI
Makes about 24 biscotti
For the sponge:
1 envelope (2 1/2 teaspoons) active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water
3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, cut into bits and softened
2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon aniseed
1/2 teaspoon salt
Make the sponge: In the bowl of an electric mixer proof the yeast in the water for 5 minutes, or until the mixture is foamy. Whisk in the flour and let the sponge stand, covered with plastic wrap, for 30 minutes, or until is is frothy.
To the sponge add the sugar, the water, and the butter and stir the mixture until it is combined well. Add the flour, the aniseed, and the salt and with the electric mixer fitted with the dough hook knead the dough for 3 minutes, or until it is smooth but still sticky. Tranfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, turning it to coat it well with the oil, and let it rise, covered tightly with plastic wrap, for 1 1/2 hours, or until it is double in bulk.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, halve it, and with floured hands form each piece of dough into a flattish log 15 inches long and 2 inches wide. Transfer the logs to a buttered and floured baking sheet and let them rise, covered with a kitchen towel, for 2 hours, or until they are double in bulk.
Bake the logs in the middle of a preheated 350 degree oven for 30 minutes, or until they are golden brown, and let them cool on the baking sheet on a rack for 10 minutes. On a cutting board cut the logs crosswise on the diagonal into 1-inch-thick slices, arrange the biscotti, cut sides down, on the baking sheet, and bake them in the 350 degree oven for 10 minutes on each side, or until they are pale golden. Transfer the biscotti to racks to cool and store them in airtight containers.
HAZELNUT BISCOTTI
Makes approximately 2 dozen
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
4 tablespoons hazelnut liqueur or brandy
1-1/2 cups hazelnuts, lightly toasted and skinned or walnuts
3 whole eggs
1 tablespoon minced lemon zest
3-1/2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Very coarsely chop hazelnuts. Combine sugar, butter, liqueur, nuts and eggs together and mix well.
Stir in flour, baking powder and salt. Knead briefly and form into a long loaf about 2 inches in diameter. Dough should hold its shape easily. Place on a cookie sheet and bake for 25 minutes or until firm. It will have a cake-like texture. Remove from oven and cool.
Slice diagonally into 1/2 inch slices and lay out on a cookie sheet. Bake for 20 minutes more, turning once until both sides are lightly browned and toasted. Cool and store in an airtight container.
John Ash (c) 1990
Revised 8/95
ROSEMARY WALNUT BISCOTTI
Makes about 36 biscotti
2 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornmeal (preferably stone-ground)
1 1/2 teaspoons double-acting baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
1/2 cup plain non-fat yogurt
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut into bits and softened
3/4 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped coarse
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, chopped fine, or 1 teaspoon dried crumbled
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment blend the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, salt, the egg and the yogurt, and beat the mixture on low speed until a dough is formed. Add the butter, beating until it is just incorporated, and stir in the walnuts and the rosemary.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, knead it several times, and let it stand, covered with a kitchen towel, for 5 minutes. Halve the dough and, working on a large buttered and floured baking sheet, with floured hands form each piece of dough into a flattish log 12 inches long and 2 inches wide. Arrange the logs at least 3 inches apart on the baking sheet, bake them in the middle of a preheated 325 degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until they are set and pale golden, and let them cool on the sheet on a rack for 10 minutes. On a cutting board cut the logs crosswise on the diagonal into 1/2-inch-thick slices, arrange the biscotti, cut sides down, on the baking sheet, and bake them in the 325 degree oven for 10 to 12 minutes on each side, or until they are pale golden. Transfer the biscotti to racks to cool and store them in airtight containers.
FRESH CORN, ORZO, AND SMOKED CHICKEN SALAD WITH PINE NUTS
This makes an excellent lunch salad or light supper for summer, and it can be made ahead of time and chilled. Smoked chicken is widely available, and this might just be an excuse to make Corned Chicken. Any smoked meat of fish would be tasty in this salad. If the corn isn't perfectly young, sweet, and tender, I suggest blanching it for a few seconds and cooling it before using.
serves 6 to 8 as a main course
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1/2 cup seasoned rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
2 bay leaves
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
4 ounces dry orzo or other grain-shaped pasta
2 tablespoons olive oil
12 ounces smoked chicken, julienned
2 1/2 cups fresh raw corn kernels, white or yellow (2 to 3 large ears)
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
1/2 cup chopped green onions, both white and pale green parts
1/2 cup julienned red bell pepper, blanched for a couple of seconds in boiling water
Kosher sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
Fresh basil sprigs and lime wedges for garnishing
In a small saucepan, combine the pepper flakes, vinegar, corn syrup, bay leaves, and lime juice. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Remove and discard the bay leaves. In a pot of lightly salted boiling water, cook the orzo until al dente. Drain the pasta and immediately run cold water over it to stop the cooking. Drain again, scoop into a large bowl, and toss with the olive oil.
Add the dressing and lightly toss to combine. Add the smoked chicken, corn, basil, green onions, and red pepper. Toss to combine and season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate for an hour or so for the flavors to marry. Serve the salad sprinkled with pine nuts and garnished with basil sprigs and lime wedges.
(recipe originally found in John Ash's cookbook From The Earth To The Table)
FRESH CHERRY FLAN
This version of the classic French clafouti works equally well with any other fresh, ripe fruit, such as blackberries, apricots, and peaches--but I love cherries.
serves 6 to 8
Butter for the baking dish
3 1/2 cups sweet ripe cherries, any variety
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large egg yolks
1 large egg
1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons dark rum
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 cup milk
Confectioners' sugar and Creme Fraiche for garnishing
Carefully pit the cherries, leaving them whole.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter a 9-inch baking dish. In a large bowl, combine the granulated sugar, egg yolks, and egg and mix until smooth. Beat in the melted butter, followed by the flour, rum, lemon zest, and milk. The batter should be very smooth. Alternatively, the batter may be quickly made in a blender or food processor.
Arrange the cherries in the bottom of the prepared dish and pour the batter on top. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until golden brown and lightly puffed and set.
Serve warm, with a dusting of confectioners' sugar and a dollop or two of Creme Fraiche.
(recipe originally found in John Ash's cookbook From The Earth To The Table)
TURKEY CONFIT –SOMETHING ELSE DELICIOUS TO DO WITH TURKEY!
Classic confit uses duck or goose and was traditionally a French technique to preserve it. The meat was cooked very slowly in its own fat then chilled. The fat sealed the meat off from the air allowing it to be kept for a long time. When removed from the fat a marvelous transformation occurs - - deep rich flavor and a silky texture to the meat that literally melts in your mouth.
Today you’ll see confit on many restaurant menus made not only from duck and goose but also pork and my new favorite . . . turkey. The meat can be used in many ways including browning in a pan or under a broiler to crisp the skin and then served as is or as part of a savory salad. I also love to use the confit as part of a risotto or to toss with a simple pasta or rice dish. Once you taste it all kinds of opportunities to use it will come to mind.
Its really very simple to do. Because turkey is much leaner than duck or goose you’ll have to add fat to make the dish. Happily olive oil works fine and tastes great. The key is to make sure not to brown the meat as its cooking in the oil. You’ll want to pay attention for the first 10 minutes or so until you stabilize the temperature (at around 200 degrees). Remove the turkey when its very tender but before it falls off the bone. The legs, thighs and wings are actually the best parts of the turkey to make the confit with since they are more flavorful and have a bit of fat of their own. I’ve specified thighs below but use whichever you want. The breast typically doesn’t work as well since it is so lean and the texture of the meat is different.
What to do with the oil after using the confit? Its fantastic! It picks up all of the flavor of the bird and seasonings. Simply strain and keep it refrigerated. Then the next time you sauté potatoes, eggs or for frying almost anything you’ll be adding a delicious flavor note from the seasoned oil.
3 pounds or so turkey thighs, bone in and skin on
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper
1 small bay leaf, crumbled finely
5 whole cloves
5 large cloves of peeled garlic
2 quarts or so extra virgin olive oil
Sprinkle the thighs evenly with the salt, pepper, thyme and bay leaf. Poke a clove into each of the garlic cloves and nestle into the thighs. Cover and refrigerated for at least 6 hours and up to 24.
Remove the turkey for the refrigerator and quickly rinse off most of the salt and seasonings. Pat dry with paper towels. Reserve the clove studded garlic.
Place the thighs in a deep oven proof sauce pan just large enough to hold in a single layer along with the garlic. Cover with the olive oil and slowly heat the oil over medium until a few bubbles begin to appear. Oil should be around 190 degrees on an instant read thermometer.
You can now cook the turkey covered on top of the stove or in a preheated 225 degree oven checking to make sure that the oil stays around 200 degrees. Cook, turning once or twice for about 2-1/2 hours or until the meat is very tender but not falling off the bone.
Gently place meat in a container and pour oil over so that meat is completely covered. Cover and store in the refrigerator for at least 3 days before using and up to 2 weeks. Though confit can be used immediately it really benefits from a mellowing in the refrigerator for a few days. Don’t forget to save and use the delicious oil!
John Ash © 2006
JA
SPICY GRILLED SQUID SALAD
Serves 4 to 6
In cooking squid there is no in-between. Either you cook them very briefly or else simmer for a long time. Anything in-between results in a tough, chewy and thoroughly inedible dish! In this recipe I’m doing a fast cook method. The recipe can also be done under a hot broiler if you don’t want to fire up the grill - - but the smoky flavor and char from the grill adds delicious flavor. I love serving this salad in little Chinese “to go? boxes with chop sticks.
1 pound baby squid, cleaned and skinned
Olive oil
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Spicy dressing (recipe follows)
6 ounces large shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded
2 ounces very thin rice noodles (often labeled “vermicelli?)
Toasted sesame oil
1-1/2 cups English cucumber, seeded and sliced at an angle
3/4 cup carrots cut in fine julienne or slices
2 cups very finely sliced green or nappa cabbage
1 large mango, peeled, seeded and cut into large dice
1/2 cup daikon or other savory sprouts
1/3 cup lightly packed cilantro leaves
1/4 cup lightly packed tender mint leaves
Separate the squid bodies from the tentacles, rinse under cold water and pat dry. Toss the bodies and the tentacles separately with olive oil and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper. Grill the bodies and tentacles over a hot grill for a minute or so on each side or until they puff and take on just a little color. Tentacles will take slightly longer than the bodies. Cut bodies into rings or 1 inch pieces and tentacles into bite size pieces and toss with half the dressing and set aside. Brush mushrooms with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and quickly grill. Cut in thick slices and add to squid.
Meanwhile soak the noodles in hot water for 15 minutes or so or until they are softened. Drain, throw onto a cutting board in a tangle and chop a couple of times. Toss with drops of sesame oil. Combine noodles, squid mixture, cucumber, carrots, cabbage, mango and sprouts. Place in to go boxes or arrange attractively on small plates, drizzled with remaining dressing and topped with cilantro and mint leaves.
Spicy Dressing
Makes about 1 cup
1/2 cup fresh lime juice
4 tablespoons Asian fish sauce
1 teaspoon minced fresh red chile or to taste
2 teaspoons finely minced garlic
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
5 tablespoons sugar or to taste
1 tablespoon cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
Combine all ingredients and stir until sugar is dissolved. Let stand at least 30 minutes before serving for flavors to develop. Adjust salt/sweet/tart/hot flavors to your taste.
John Ash © 2006
Good Food Hour Audio Archive
5/13/06 Steve interviews Michael Watchhorn of Hog Island Oysters
5/6/06 Steve & John
4/29/06 Steve & John
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FLAVORED BUTTERS FOR GRILLED FISHES AND MEATS
One of the simplest but, I think , most delicious way to complete a nicely grilled or broiled piece of fish, meat vegetable is to use a flavored butter. They can be made entirely ahead of time and can be kept in the freezer for months (although once you know that they are there and start using them, they won’t last that long!). Its actually quite an old technique that the French have used for a long time. You’ll find them referred to in recipes as “compound butters? and they are used liberally in the dishes of those great butter producing regions of Normandy and Brittany.
Like all recipes, the end result is dependent on the quality of the ingredients used. For a long time in America the quality of our butter has not been as good as that found in France. Like most agricultural products the best butter comes from the milk of cows that are range fed and from a single specific location. You can almost taste the grasses, water and soil in good butters. Being a lover of wine there is a direct analogy here. The French use the term “terrior? (roughly territory or place ) which describes the climate, soil and other growing conditions that the grapes are grown in. This basically says that the site ultimately determines taste. Its an interesting idea that I think has a lot of validity for all crops including the milk that is used to make butter. The best butters that I’ve tasted in America come from milk produced in a few specific sites such as California’s north coast, northern Wisconsin and Michigan and New York’s Hudson Valley. There are a few courageous producers out there who are making butters in these regions and its worth seeking them out.
Here then are a few of my favorite flavored butters to get you started. I’m sure you’ll come up with your own delicious variations once you see how easy they are. If you are using directly from the freezer you may want to soften them just a bit before placing them on top of your grilled foods so that they can begin to melt as you bring them to the table. Yumm!
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All of the following flavored butters use one pound of unsalted butter. Soften the butter by beating for a minute or two with an electric mixer or by hand with a wooden spoon. Stir in the flavoring ingredients (be sure they are cool if any of them are cooked). Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days or roll into logs, wrap tightly in aluminum foil and freeze for later use.
Basil Currant Butter
2/3 cup currants or coarsely chopped golden raisins
3/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup minced shallots or green onions
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 pound sweet, unsalted butter
3/4 cup lightly packed fresh chopped basil leaves (2 tablespoons dry)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a small saucepan heat the currants and wine together until steaming. Remove from heat and allow the currants to soften and plump, approximately 30 minutes. Drain the currants reserving the liquid.
In a separate skillet, sauté the shallots and garlic in 2 tablespoons of the butter until soft but not brown. Add the reserved liquid from the currants and reduce over moderate heat until most of the liquid is evaporated. Cool. With a mixer or by hand beat the remaining butter until softened. Quickly stir in currants, shallot mixture and basil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Store per above.
Fresh Herb, Shallot and Lemon Butter
1 ½ cups finely chopped shallots or green onions
1 pound sweet, unsalted butter
¾ cup dry white wine
¾ cup chopped mixed fresh leafy herbs such as chives, tarragon, dill, parsley, basil
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
salt and freshly ground pepper
Sauté the shallots in 3 tablespoons of the butter until soft but not brown. Add the wine and continue to cook until all of the liquid is evaporated. Cool.
Soften the remaining butter with an electric mixer or by hand and stir in the shallot mixture, herbs, lemon zest and juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Store per above.
Note: If available, a nice addition here is to stir in some roughly chopped edible flower petals such as calendula, bachelor button, marigold or roses. Be sure that they are truly edible and grown organically without and any insecticides, fungicides or other chemicals.
Olive and Sun Dried Tomato Butter
1 cup finely diced red onion
1 pound sweet, unsalted butter
½ cup hearty red wine
½ cup sun dried tomatoes in oil, drained and finely chopped
2/3 cup Kalamata or Nicoise olives, rinsed, pitted and finely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
salt and freshly ground pepper
Sauté the onions in 2 tablespoons butter over moderate heat until just beginning to soften but not browned. Add wine and continue to cook until most of the liquid has evaporated. Cool. Soften remaining butter with an electric mixer or by hand and stir in the onion mixture, sundried tomatoes, olives, parley and salt and pepper to taste. Store per above.
John Ash © 2006
A recent recipe featured on the Good Food Hour:
PECORINO AND POTATO TORTA
Serves 6 – 8
You’ll note there is no cream or milk in this variation of scalloped potatoes. It’s very simple to do and you could add some chopped black olives and other herbs if you liked. Be sure to use a very fruity, green olive oil for best results.
8 tablespoons fruity extra virgin olive oil
4 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
2 cups coarse bread crumbs
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1-1/4 cups freshly grated Pecorino cheese
Oil a 2 quart, 2 to 3 inch deep earthenware baking dish with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Slice the potatoes into 1/4-inch thick rounds and set aside. Toss with ½ cup of the bread crumbs and season liberally with salt and pepper.
In a separate bowl mix the remaining 1-1/2 cups of bread crumbs with the parsley, remaining olive oil and the Pecorino. Spread a single layer of the potatoes in the bottom of the baking dish and sprinkle with 4 tablespoons of the cheese mixture. Continue layering finishing with the bread crumb and cheese mixture.
Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 1 hour or until potatoes and tender and top is golden brown. Serve hot.
John Ash © 2002
Here's another recipe for Mustard Fruits:
MUSTARD FRUITS
Makes about 1 quart
This is my interpretation of the spicy fruits of Cremona Italy. They are often served with grilled sausages and bollito misto, the famous boil of all kinds of mixed meats. Chop up the fruits and use on sandwiches or canapés teamed with cold salumi. Delicious too as an accompaniment with cheeses. I’ve suggested dried fruits that I like but you can use whatever you like.
2 tablespoons mustard powder such as Colman’s
4 cups dry white wine
1-3/4 cups sugar
3 tablespoons whole mustard seed
1-1/2 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
½ cup jumbo mixed raisins
1 cup dried apricots, cut in half
1 cup dried figs, cut in quarters
½ cup dried blueberries, preferably wild
½ cup dried cherries
Stir the mustard powder together with 3 tablespoons water and set aside.
In a deep saucepan add the wine, sugar, mustard seed and pepper flakes and bring to a boil. Add the dried fruits, bring back to the boil then reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes or so. Off heat, stir in mustard and allow to cool. Transfer to a clean jar and allow to sit at room temperature for 12 hours for flavors to develop.
Store covered and refrigerated for up to 3 weeks.
John Ash © 2005
JA |
