COLD GREEN PEA SOUP
Serves 4
This is a simple beautifully green soup in which you can make all kinds of substitutions such as broccoli or asparagus for some or all of the peas, watercress or spinach for some or all of the romaine and basil, dill or tarragon for some or all of the mint.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped green onions including green tops
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
3 cups fresh or frozen sweet peas (about 12 ounces)
2 cups defatted chicken or vegetable stock
1-1/2 cups (packed) finely chopped romaine or other green lettuce
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2/3 cup buttermilk
Salt
Drops of lemon juice
Hot pepper sauce such as Tabasco
Garnish: Chopped mixed fresh herbs of your choice
Heat oil in a deep saucepan, add the green onions and garlic and sauté over moderate heat until softened but not brown, about 3 minutes. Add the peas and stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until peas are just cooked through and remove from heat to cool for a few minutes. Add mixture to a blender and puree. Add romaine and mint and puree again until smooth. Add buttermilk and whiz again till combined. Season to your taste with salt, drops of lemon juice and hot pepper sauce. Strain through a medium strainer and chill. Taste again for seasoning. Ladle into chilled bowls or mugs and top with chopped herbs if desired. Can be made up to a day ahead and stored covered in the refrigerator.
Note: If using fresh peas, you may want to add drops of honey to the soup depending on their maturity.
CHILLED AVOCADO SOUP
Serves 6
3 large ripe avocados; peeled, pitted and chopped
1/4 cup fresh lime or lemon juice
2 teaspoons grated lime or lemon zest
4 cups or so rich corn or chicken stock
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon fresh ginger juice (crushed in a garlic press)
1 teaspoon minced serrano chile or drops of bottled hot sauce to taste
3 tablespoons fresh chopped cilantro or 2 tablespoons chopped mint
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Garnish: Finely diced, seeded ripe tomato and cucumber, nori strips and tobiko, if desired.
Add ingredients to a food processor or blender (in batches if necessary) and puree until smooth. Thin to desired consistency with additional stock. Chill for an hour or two to allow flavors to blend and serve in chilled bowls with suggested garnishes.
SOPA FRÍA DE AGUACATE (CHILLED AVOCADO SOUP)
Serves 6–8
4 serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped
2 large ripe avocados, pitted, peeled, and roughly chopped
1 medium white onion, finely chopped
6 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup fresh lime juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 plum tomatoes, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
Combine half the serrano chiles, the avocados, and half the onion in a food processor, and process until a smooth paste forms. Add stock, cream, and lime juice, and purée until very smooth. Pour through a fine strainer into a bowl or pitcher, and season with salt and pepper; cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours.
To serve, divide soup among serving bowls and top with a spoonful each of remaining chiles and onion, along with the tomatoes.
CHILLED HEIRLOOM TOMATO SOUP WITH A SWIRL OF SALSA VERDE
Serves 6 – 8
Unfortunately, regular hot-house tomatoes don’t work in this recipe. Wait until summer heirloom tomatoes are in season and select the most flavorful, vine-ripened ones you can find. This is a great excuse to visit your local Farmer’s market. For variety I sometimes will separately add up to a cup or so of freshly juiced cucumber, sweet red bell pepper or carrot to the soup mixture. Salsa Verde is one of the great fresh condiment sauces of the Mediterranean and has lots of delicious uses.
4 pounds coarsely chopped ripe tomatoes
1/4 cup or so balsamic vinegar, preferably white (or to taste)
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
Salsa Verde (recipe follows)
Crème fraiche (recipe follows) or yogurt
Puree the tomatoes in a food processor and force through a medium mesh strainer with a rubber spatula to catch all the seeds and skins. Season to your taste with the vinegar, salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until very cold.
To serve, ladle soup into chilled soup bowls. Swirl a tablespoon of the salsa verde in the center and garnish with a dollop of crème fraiche, if desired.
Salsa Verde
Makes about 1 cup
This is a quick little sauce of Spanish origin that is delicious on all kinds of grilled, pan seared or roasted meats, fish and vegetables. Note that I’ve used blanched or roasted garlic rather than fresh raw. I think this is especially important if you are going to make the sauce ahead. Within an hour, raw garlic can become harsh and hot. Blanched or roasted garlic maintains its more subtle and sweet flavor and doesn’t overpower the sauce as it sits.
1 cup coarsely chopped parsley
4 anchovy fillets, rinsed
2 tablespoons drained capers
2 tablespoons blanched or roasted garlic (see note below)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or mint or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
2/3 cup or so fruity extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Add the parsley, anchovies, capers, garlic, basil and zest to a food processor or blender. With machine running, slowly add the oil until just blended. Sauce should still have a little texture. Season with salt and pepper. Can be stored covered and refrigerated for up to 1 day.
Note: To poach garlic, separate cloves but don’t peel. Place in a small sauce pan and cover with at least ½ inch of cold water. Place on stove over high heat and bring to a boil. As soon as water boils, drain and repeat process one more time. Rinse to cool off cloves. Remove husk from poached garlic and store covered in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
To roast garlic, cut off top quarter of a whole head to expose each of the cloves. Drizzle with a little olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Wrap loosely in foil and roast in a preheated 375-degree oven for 30 – 40 minutes or until garlic is soft when gently squeezed. Store covered in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Squeeze out as needed.
Making Crème Fraiche:
Lots of recipes call for crème fraiche which is similar to sour cream but smoother and richer. In France, where it originates, its body comes from the natural bacteria in unpasteurized cream. In America, however this is nearly impossible for us to get unless you milk your own animals so we can make a good approximation with the following simple recipe. Crème Fraiche is great for cooking because of its rich flavor and stability – – it won’t break when heated, unlike sour cream.
1 cup heavy cream, preferably natural and not “ultra” pasteurized or processed
2 tablespoons cultured buttermilk
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Stir all together, cover and let sit at room temperature for 6 – 8 hours or until very thick. Refrigerate covered for up to 5 days.
CHILLED TOMATO-BEER SOUP
Serves: 8
Note: Green garlic is available at farmers markets. You may substitute blanched, chopped regular garlic.
4 cups peeled, seeded and diced very ripe tomatoes (about 10 medium)
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 green onions, trimmed and chopped
2 tsps. chopped green garlic
1 (12-ounce) bottle very cold Pilsener or lager
1 tsp. sea salt, or to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsps. chopped chives
Combine the tomatoes, cucumber, green onions and garlic in a blender and process until smooth.
Pour the mixture into a bowl. Cover and chill at least 4 hours.
Just before serving, stir in the beer. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with chives and serve at once.
COLD LAYERED AVOCADO AND TOMATO SOUP
Serves 6 – 8
This is a fun soup or first course for a warm day. Use clear, straight-sided glasses or wine glasses to show off the layers of color. Choose ones that hold at least 10 ounces. A large martini glass can also work. Alternately you can do a “yin yang” presentation in a flat, wide rim soup plate. Be sure to use vine ripe, preferably heirloom tomatoes.
2 pounds ripe tomatoes
3 tablespoons or so white balsamic vinegar, or to taste
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 firm ripe avocados, about 8 ounces each
1 cup defatted chicken or vegetable stock
3 tablespoons sour cream, optional
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Drops of your favorite hot sauce to taste
1 small cucumber, 10 – 12 ounces
3 tablespoons chopped shallots or green onions
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
Wash and core tomatoes and cut into chunks. Puree in a blender or food processor then press through a fine mesh strainer to remove seeds and skin and discard. You should have about 3 cups. Season to taste with the balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper and chill until cold, at least 1 hour.
Peel and pit the avocados, cut into chunks. Add to a blender or food processor along with the stock, sour cream and lime juice and puree till smooth. Season to taste with salt, pepper and drops of hot sauce. Cover surface with plastic wrap and chill until cold, at least 1 hour.
Peel cucumber, cut in half lengthwise and scoop out and discard seeds. Cut into ¼ inch dice. You should have about 1 cup. Gently combine with the shallots and cilantro and season to taste with salt, pepper and vinegar.
To serve: Spoon equal portions of avocado mixture into glasses. Stir tomato mixture to blend and pour carefully on top of avocado. Top with the cucumber salsa and serve immediately.
COLD TOMATILLO-TEQUILA SOUP
Serves 6 – 8
I love chilled soups in the summer. This south-of-the-border excursion is a snap to prepare and evokes memories of beaches and bullfights.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1-1/2 cups chopped yellow onions
1 tablespoon jalapeno chiles, seeded and diced (or to taste)
2 lbs. tomatillos, husked, rinsed and quartered
2 tablespoons garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1-1/2 teaspoons dried oregano (Mexican preferred)
4 cups rich chicken stock
1/4 cup Tequila
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice (or to taste)
Kosher salt and Tabasco to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon sugar
1 cup low-fat yogurt
Heat oil in a heavy soup pot and sauté onions until golden brown. Add chiles, tomatillos, garlic, cumin and oregano and sauté 5 minutes more. Add stock, bring to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes. Remove and puree then chill. To serve: Add tequila, lime juice, salt and tabasco to taste, cilantro, sugar and yogurt. Stir well to combine and dissolve sugar.
A SIMPLE GAZPACHO
Serves 4
Here is a quick and easy no-cook soup that can be ready in just a few minutes. Traditional gazpachos which originated in Andalucia in Spain often called for bread and lots of olive oil as part of the mixture to make it more hearty and filling. It was really a poor workingman’s concoction and originally did not include tomatoes until they arrived from the new world. This is a much lighter and refreshing version. All kinds of garnishes are possible from simple basil as I’ve done here to fresh cooked shrimps, crab, sliced hard boiled eggs, etc. for something more elegant.
4 large red vine ripe tomatoes (preferably heirloom), about 2 pounds
1-1/2 cups peeled, seeded and diced cucumber (1/2 inch dice)
2/3 cup diced sweet red onion
1/2 cup stemmed, seeded and diced red bell pepper
1/4 cup or so fragrant extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons or so sherry or red wine vinegar
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Fresh basil leaves, cut in fine julienne
Place the tomatoes and half of the cucumber, onion and pepper in a food processor and process to a smooth puree. Add the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the vinegar and process again. Taste and add more olive oil and vinegar to your liking. Push the soup through a medium mesh strainer and discard solids. Season to your taste with salt and pepper. Cover and chill for at least one hour and up to overnight. To serve: stir in remaining vegetables and spoon into chilled bowls, top with basil and a drizzle of olive oil.
TOMATO AND WATERMELON GAZPACHO WITH CRAB
Serves 8
1 large serrano chile, preferably red
1 large poblano chile
4 cups seedless red watermelon chunks (1-1/2 pounds)
2 teaspoons poached or roasted garlic puree (see below)
2 pounds cored red heirloom tomatoes
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice or to taste
1/4 cup crème fraîche
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound Dungeness crab, picked over to remove any shells
2 small Hass avocados, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
Micro greens or mint sprigs
Roast the serrano and poblano over a gas flame until lightly charred all over. Cover with plastic and allow to steam for a few minutes then rub off as much skin as possible. Remove the stem and seeds from both. Add the serrano to a blender. Dice the poblano and set aside. Add the watermelon and garlic to the blender and puree; transfer to a bowl and refrigerate.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and fill a bowl with ice water. Score the tomato bottoms with an X. Add the tomatoes to the boiling water and blanch for 10 seconds to loosen their skins. Transfer the tomatoes to the ice water to cool.
Peel the tomatoes and halve them crosswise. Working over a sieve set in a bowl, pry out the seeds. Press on the seeds to extract the juice, then discard them. Transfer the tomatoes and their juices to the blender and puree. Stir the tomato puree into the watermelon puree along with the vinegar and season to your taste with salt.
In a medium bowl, whisk the lemon juice, crème fraîche and olive oil together and season with salt. Fold in the crab, avocado and reserved poblano. Ladle the soup into bowls, mound the crab salad in the center, top with microgreens and serve.
To Roast Garlic: Slice off the top quarter or so of each garlic head to expose the cloves. Drizzle with a little olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Loosely but completely wrap each head in a piece of foil and roast in a preheated 400-degree oven or until garlic is very soft and lightly browned, about 45 minutes or so. To use simply squeeze the buttery soft garlic out of the head just like you’d do toothpaste.
To Poach garlic: Separate cloves but don’t peel. Place in a small saucepan and cover with at least ½ inch of cold water. Place on stove over high heat and bring to a boil. As soon as water boils, drain and repeat process one more time. Rinse to cool off cloves and now easily remove husk.
CHILLED MANGO AND CUCUMBER SOUP
Serves 4 – 6 (makes about 7 cups)
2 mangoes, peeled and pitted (2 pounds)
2 seedless cucumbers (1-1/2 pounds)
3 tablespoons finely chopped sweet red onion
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Salt to taste
Finely chop 1 mango and 1 cucumber and set aside. Coarsely chop remaining mango and cucumber and purée with 1/3 cup cold water in a blender until almost smooth. Transfer to a bowl and stir in finely chopped mango and cucumber, onion, lime juice, and apple juice. Chill in refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Can be made a day ahead.
Just before serving, stir in cilantro and salt.
COLD FRESH CANTALOUPE SOUP
Serves 6 – 8
We’re seeing many more varieties of melons in the market these days. Use any that you like. I’ve also made this with other yellow or orange fleshed varieties such as Canary or Crane. For an interesting visual twist, cut the recipe in half and separately puree a green fleshed melon such as honeydew and ladle into bowl simultaneously with cantaloupe soup to create a “yin – yang” effect.
8 cups cantaloupe, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1 cup yogurt
1 cup fruity Gewurztraminer or Riesling wine
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon honey (or to taste)
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
Salt and drops of hot sauce to taste
Garnish: A swirl of pureed and strained raspberries or blackberries, mint leaves, and edible flower petals, if desired.
In food processor or blender, puree all ingredients except garnish until smooth. Pour into a bowl and chill for at least 2 hours for flavors to blend. Can be made up to a day ahead. Garnish berry puree, mint leaves and flowers.
STRAWBERRY GINGER SOUP
Serves 4
2 1/2 cups strawberry juice (3 pints strawberries)
1-2 tablespoons ginger juice
1 ripe banana
1 cup sparkling apple cider or champagne
4 tablespoons yogurt
1 cup mixed blueberries and red raspberries
Garnish: Mint sprigs
Combine juices and banana in a blender (or use an immersion blender) and blend till smooth. Add sparkling cider and ladle into chilled soup bowls. Serve with a dollop of yogurt, a scattering of fresh berries and a mint sprig or two.
Note: Almost any berry or combination can be used depending on what’s in season.
CHILLED CORN, JICAMA, AND BUTTERMILK SOUP WITH SHRIMP
Serves 6 to 8
The potato and curry base of this soup can be made ahead in a larger quantity and frozen for use at any time. Any combination of raw vegetables can be used, such as cucumbers, red onions, and sweet peas. The quality of the buttermilk is key to the flavor of the dish. A good “Bulgarian” cultured buttermilk is what I like, or look for a good goat buttermilk
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 cups chopped onion
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
2 tablespoons peeled and chopped fresh ginger
2 teaspoons good quality curry powder, or to taste
1 teaspoon minced and seeded serrano chiles
1 cup peeled and diced new potatoes
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 cups vegetable or chicken stock
2/3 cup light cream
4 cups buttermilk
2 tablespoons lime juice
3 cups fresh sweet corn kernels, preferably roasted or grilled
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1 cup peeled and diced jicama
3/4-pound cooked bay or rock shrimp
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Your favorite hot pepper sauce to taste
Garnish: Chopped fresh chives
In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, curry, and chiles and sauté over moderate heat, until soft but not brown. Add the potatoes, wine and stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are very tender. Remove from the heat and cool. In a blender or food processor, puree the cooled soup base.
Add the cream, buttermilk, lime juice, corn, cilantro, jicama, and shrimp to the chilled soup base. Season to taste with salt, pepper and drops of Tabasco to taste.
Serve cold garnished with chopped chives.