CHERRIES

CHERRY CHUTNEY

Makes 3-4 cups

Published in Press Democrat by Jeff Cox on 6/3/24

John is a national treasure who happens to live locally. Of this chutney, he says, “This is a versatile, not-too-sweet chutney, a version of which I had years ago in an English pub. There they served it as an accompaniment to a nutty, aged cheddar cheese and whole grain bread. I also love this with roast turkey, duck, sausages, and game meats such as venison.”

2 cups dried cherries

1 ½ cups quartered dried apricots

1 ¼ cups organic cider vinegar

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon red chili flakes

2 tablespoons chopped crystallized ginger

3 whole star anise

2 teaspoons whole coriander seed

½ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

2 tablespoons slivered fresh garlic

1 ½ pounds tart sweet apples such as Fuji or Gala, cored, peeled, and diced

Place all ingredients except apples in a large, non-aluminum saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer partially covered for 10 minutes.

Add the apples and return to a boil, then again reduce heat and simmer partially covered for 35 minutes or so, or until mixture has thickened. Stir occasionally.

Remove and discard star anise. Ladle into hot sterilized jars, seal and refrigerate for up to three months. Or can in a boiling water bath to store on a cool dry shelf for up to one year.

ALMOND BUTTERMILK CAKE WITH CHERRIES

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan and parchment
2 1/3 cups cake flour, plus more for pan
2 1/2 cups (10 ounces) fresh cherries, pitted and halved
1/4 cup plus 1 1/3 cups sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoons almond extract
1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
1 cup well-shaken buttermilk
Powdered sugar
1/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter a 9″-10″ spring form pan. Line bottom of pan with parchment paper. Butter parchment paper. Dust pan with flour, tapping out any excess. Arrange cherries in an even layer and sprinkle with 1/4 cup sugar.

Sift cake flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda into a medium bowl and set aside. Add butter and sugar to a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Beat in almond and lemon zest. Reduce speed to low and incorporate flour mixture in 3 additions, alternating with 2 additions of buttermilk, ending with flour mixture. Pour batter over cherries in pan and smooth the top.

Bake until cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean, about 1 hour to 1 hour and 20 minutes. Let cake cool in pan on a rack for 15 minutes. Then run a thin, sharp knife around the edge of the pan and release the spring form collar. Invert cake onto a rack and remove bottom and parchment paper. Let cake cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar and sprinkle with toasted almonds before serving.

To freeze, slice cake into generous wedges. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Place slices into a freezer bag or storage container in freezer. Let slices thaw at room temperature, dust with powdered sugar, sprinkle with almonds, and serve.

Note:  There’s a secret to this simple, almost pound cake dessert: it freezes beautifully! Perfect for tucking in a lunchbox or pulling out of the freezer on a rainy day, slices of this cake thawed will rival their just baked counterparts. And it works with any juicy fruit or berry!

 

CHERRY CLAFOUTI

 

Easy, fresh, light, very country, but also very elegant, clafouti is a traditional rustic Provencal dessert somewhere between a baked custard, a light pancake and a cakey souffle. This recipe is more custardy than cakey, not too sweet, with a full, ripe cherry flavor, laced with a little Kirsch. I recommend stoning the fruit; although this isn’t traditionally done, it does reduce the risk of incurred dental bills from surprised guests! Traditionally made with cherries, clafouti is also wonderful made with apricots, berries, fresh figs, pears or even peaches or apricots, with like-flavored liqueurs standing in for

the Kirsch.

1½ pounds ripe sweet black cherries, washed and dried thoroughly if necessary

3/4 cup whole milk

3/4 cup heavy cream

1 vanilla bean, split

4 large eggs, at room temperature

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup all-purpose flour, sifted

1/4 teaspoon salt

1¼ to 2 tablespoons Kirsch or other cherry brandy

Unsalted butter, at room temperature, for greasing dish

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting over finished dessert, optional

Preheat the oven to 375°. Select a shallow, wide ceramic baking dish of about 2-quart capacity. Glass can also be used, but I have found ovenproof ceramic or glazed earthenware hold the heat more evenly and produce an evenly baked custard. They also look quite beautiful when the clafouti is served at the table, in keeping with the rustic nature of the dessert. Generously butter the entire inside of the dish and set it aside. Pit the cherries using a little manual cherry or olive pitter. You could leave the stones in but warn your guests! Scatter the cherries in the bottom of the buttered dish.

Combine the milk and the cream in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the pot and add the hull. Bring this mixture just to the boil, then remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, in a medium-sized bowl, lightly beat the eggs. Add the sugar gradually and whisk until the mixture is thickened and pale, about 1 to 2 minutes. Combine the flour and salt in a small cup or bowl and sift together over the yolk and sugar mixture in three stages, whisking each addition in gently and thoroughly. You want to add just as much sifted flour as the mixture can absorb at a time without getting lumpy.

When all of the flour has been smoothly incorporated, wrap a damp kitchen towel around the bottom of the bowl to hold it steady. Pour a small amount of the hot milk and cream into the batter, whisking constantly. Slowly add the rest of the hot liquid, whisking steadily and making sure the whisk covers the whole area of the bowl. (You can remove the vanilla bean hull at this point, but I like to leave it in and bake it with the custard, discarding it when the clafouti is served.) Stir in the Kirsch.

Pour the custard over the cherries (they will bob up and float on the surface of the mixture) and place the baking dish in the center of the oven. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until it is evenly puffed and browned and the center is just set when lightly touched. Allow to cool for at least 15 minutes, then serve warm or at room temperature, dusted with confectioners’ sugar, if desired.

 

FRESH CHERRY ALMOND COBBLER

Serves 6 – 8

In California the fresh cherry season is very short, just a few weeks during early summer.  IQF (individually quick frozen without sugar) cherries are occasionally available in the market and can be substituted but fresh are best.

5 cups fresh Bing or Royal Anne cherries, pitted

3/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons arrowroot or cornstarch

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1/2 cinnamon

3 tablespoons butter (1 tablespoon for buttering dish and 2 tablespoons chilled and cut into tiny bits)

1 cup flour

1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup light cream (half and half)

1 large egg

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1/3 cup chopped blanched almonds

Garnish:  Vanilla Bean Ice Cream or slightly sweetened whipped cream

Combine cherries, 1/2 cup sugar, lemon juice, arrowroot, almond extract, grated lemon zest and cinnamon together in a sauce pan and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally until mixture simmers,

about 4 – 5 minutes.  Pour into a lightly buttered 2 quart baking dish.

In a food processor or mixer, add flour, remaining sugar, baking powder and salt and pulse 2 or 3 times to mix.  Add  2 tablespoons cut butter and pulse until just combined but still crumbly.  Add cream, egg, vanilla and pulse again just to combine and form a smooth batter.

Drop batter by heaping teaspoons on top of cherry mixture, leaving space in between.  Sprinkle almonds over and bake in a preheated 400 degree oven for 20 minutes or until top is lightly browned and cherry mixture is bubbling.  Serve warm or at room temperature with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream or slightly sweetened whipped cream.

John Ash